MAY 2024
 
 
CONTENT
THE ORIENTAL PIED HORNBILL
GUARDIAN OF THE FOREST
 
 
When wandering through the forests and parks of the Indochinese peninsula, a traveler may be lucky enough to hear or even catch a glimpse of an Oriental Pied Hornbill. Known in Laos as the “forest guardian,” the bird is as fascinating as it is rare.

The Pied Hornbill, also known as the Black-billed or White-winged Hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris), is a species belonging to the Bucerotidae family. It is endemic to Southeast Asia, particularly Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam. The Pied Hornbill inhabits developed forest areas with an abundance of large trees that provide a dense canopy. It thrives in tropical and subtropical forests (both primary and secondary), forest edges and adjacent woodland, parks, gardens, and fruit tree orchards.

The Pied Hornbill is a medium to large bird, measuring up to 25 cm in length and weighing an average of one kilogram. It has distinctive plumage, with a black head, dark brown back, and white underparts. Its wings are black with white markings, and it has a long, graduated tail and powerful pointed beak. The bird is omnivorous and feeds on a wide variety of foods, including fruit, berries, seeds, insects, spiders, small reptiles and mammals, and bird eggs. It is often seen feLe Calao Pieeding in fruit trees, where it moves stealthily in search of ripe fruit. The bird has an average flying speed of 50 km per hour.

Pied Hornbills are social and gregarious, forming groups that range from a few individuals to large gatherings. They are often seen and heard moving noisily through the forest canopy, emitting distinctive calls. The breeding season varies from region to region, occurring during the rainy season when environmental conditions are optimal for nesting and abundant food resources. Pied Hornbills generally build their nests in tree hollows, where the female lays several eggs that she incubates for a fortnight. Both parents help incubate and feed the young.

The Pied Hornbill is mainly sedentary, although some populations may move seasonally or migrate locally depending on the availability of food resources and environmental conditions.

In many Asian cultures, the Pied Hornbill is considered a symbol of good luck, prosperity, and protection. It is sometimes depicted in art, literature, and religious ceremonies as a sacred bird associated with good fortune and wisdom. In Laotian culture, a particularly large and majestic Pied Hornbill called Dok Champa is said to be the guardian of the forest and nature spirits. According to a Cambodian legend, a Pied Hornbill saved a village from destruction by warning the inhabitants of imminent danger.

In Vietnam, the most popular national parks and nature reserves for spotting the Pied Hornbill are Cu Phuong, Phong Nha - Ke Bang, Yok Don and Cat Tien. In Laos, they can be spotted in Nam Et and Phu Kao Khouay not far from Vientiane; in Virachey, Siem Pang, the Cardamon forests in Cambodia; and in the Khao Yai forest of Cambodia.


© Illustration: Damien Egan
.

 
 
MAISON WAT KOR
GREEN RETREAT AND KHMER HOSPITALITY
 
Battambang is Cambodia’s second largest city after Phnom Penh, with a population of almost 150,000. It is the capital of Battambang Province and the leading rice granary in Cambodia. Founded in the 11th century, Battambang fell under Thai control twice before being definitively reclaimed by the French in favor of the Khmers in 1909. The city is easily accessible by road from Phnom Penh (300 km) or Siem Reap (170 km). In the rainy season, traveling by river from Siem Reap to Battambang via the Tonlé Sap Lake is a unique journey on Cambodia’s nourishing waters.

Battambang lies on the banks of the Sangker River, a tributary of the Tonlé Sap, and is surrounded by fertile plains where rice, coconuts, oranges, and bananas are grown. In the town center, you’ll find colonial-style mansions with old-fashioned charm along the river, with small temples peeking out. The central market and archaeological museum are also well worth visiting.

In the southern part of Battambang lies the village of Wat Kor, famous for its 21 early 20th-century houses built from rare woods and surrounded by orchards and gardens, where you can dream and soak in the atmosphere of a bygone age. It was this authentic countryside that Kim Nou and Sophean, both Francophiles, chose for the location of the Maison Wat Kor. Blending harmoniously into the dense vegetation, this charming hotel features 15 rooms in three beautifully preserved traditional wooden houses on stilts, complete with a restaurant-bar and saltwater swimming pool.Sophea, Angelina Jolie and Kim Nou

In the late 1970s, after the fall of the Khmer Rouge regime, young Kim Nou frequently went fishing with his fellow villagers on Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. One day, on their way to the lake, the wheel of their oxcart broke. A neighboring family rushed to their aid and fixed the cart. With the repairs completed, the family out of natural kindness invited Kim Nou and his friends to enjoy a convivial meal. This heartfelt moment shared as if they were members of the same family became forever anchored in the young Kim Nou’s mind as a benchmark of Cambodian hospitality.

Today, the founder of Maison Wat Kor’s motto is to foster the human strength of Battambang’s communities and to redistribute the profits generated by his establishment to them fairly. Kim Nou encourages residents to understand and protect the essence of traditional Khmer architecture, as opposed to the contemporary style of the Chinese urban residential complexes that are gaining ground in Cambodia. He also promotes local cuisine, serving his guests culinary feasts inspired by family meals served with traditional Cambodian hospitality. The entire staff of Maison Wat Kor strives to pass on this culture and traditions to visiting guests, which have included American and French ambassadors and actors Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt.

From this lush oasis, explore the entrancing countryside around Battambang by bicycle or tuktuk. Meet Khmer craftsmen specializing in popular delicacies such as rice paper made from broken rice soaked in clay pots, dried bananas, bamboo glutinous rice (Kralan), and rice wine. Immerse yourself in the daily life of these rural communities and taste freshly prepared specialties, sharing a moment of conviviality over a taste of seasonal fruit, coconut water, and warm smiles. Nearby, visit the commemorative site for victims of the Khmer Rouge regime, the Samrong Knong extermination field, or the historic and religious site of Phnom Sampov (the Grotto of Death), famous for its reclining Buddha. For circus aficionados, visit the campus of the NGO Phare Ponleu Selpak, a cultural organization dedicated to integrating disadvantaged young people into the world of arts and entertainment, a veritable catalyst of vocation for these new generations in the making.


                           
THE CU LAO CHAM ARCHIPELAGO
BETWEEN EXOTIC SEABED AND GLOBAL BIOSPHERE
 
In previous editions of this newsletter, we have introduced travelers to Central Vietnam. We continue in this vein with Cu Lao Cham, an archipelago off the coast of Hoi An and the Thu Bon estuary.

The archipelago of the Cham Islands (Cu Lao Cham or Pûn Lao Cham, “the island of the Cham”) stands out for its windy fishing villages, crystal-clear waters, and exotic seabed classified as a marine park and world biosphere reserve recognized by UNESCO. Cu Lao Cham itself lies on a north-south-east axis, measuring 7.5 km in length and 3.6 km at its widest. Its eastern coast features rocky heights, cliffs, and half-sunken boulders battered by the waves. The more sheltered southern coast is made up of golden sandy beaches and two fishing villages, Tan Hiep and Bai Huong, to the south-east. The whole area is dominated by a hummocky ridge line leading to the island’s highest point – an eminence covered by thick maritime forest that rises to 518m, with the second peak reaching 326m. The rocks here are mainly granite of the early Triassic age.

The archipelago conservation area of is made up of two zones: one marshy towards Hoi An and the Thu Bon delta, and the other peninsular. The corridor between the two central zones is considered to be the ecological buffer zone and the transition zone linking the mouth of the Thu Bon and the archipelago. This corridor contributes significantly to the recovery of the region’s marine ecosystems, which include seagrass beds, coral reefs, beaches, mangrove forests, and tropical rainforests. So far, 35 species of coral, 122 species of algae, 144 species of shellfish, 25 species of crustaceans (including four species of spiny lobster), 84 species of spiny lobster, and 178 species of fish have been identified, including the coral grouper (Epinephelus coralicola), the humpback parrotfish (Bolbometopon muricatum), the angelfish (Pomacanthidae), and the Napoleon fish (Cheilinus undulates).Récif corallien

The archipelago is also home to species of monkey including the macaque and salanganes (Aerodramus, the sea swallows). The eggs of the salanganes are considered a delicacy, and the annual harvest is said to be around 1.4 tones, worth USD 4,000 per kilogram.

The archipelago has been colonized since ancient times by proto-Indochinese groups and then by the Chams, who established ports, sanctuaries, monuments, dykes and rice fields. Ancient archives describe the site as follows: ... 12 km from the estuary of the sông Thu-bôn leading to the river port of Faifo. In the 8th century, this volcanic island was a place of exile for criminals from the kingdom of Champa. The islanders seem to have retained the characteristic features of the ancient Cham. Exploitation of edible salangane nests, sought after by Chinese gourmets.

Sailors from various fleets know the archipelago for its anchorage facilities, freshwater supplies and game. The archipelago appears in Chinese maps dating from around 700 AD. Various shipwrecks have been discovered on the seabed around the archipelago, one of which contains relatively large jars, suggesting that they may have been used for storage and transport; some of the ceramics found have been attributed to the Chu Dau kiln site (North Vietnam, Hai Duong province).

Today, Cu Lao Cham opens its coral gardens to snorkeling and diving enthusiasts, after a short boat transfer from Hoi An's Lantern City. Supervised by a certified instructor, descend between 6 and 12 m to explore this exceptional aquatic world, before returning to Bai Chong beach to relax and enjoy local seafood dishes served on the fine sand.
Secret Indochina
        Apsara illustration
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