THE ORIENTAL PIED HORNBILL
GUARDIAN OF THE FOREST

When wandering through the forests and parks of the Indochinese peninsula, a traveler may be lucky enough to hear or even catch a glimpse of an Oriental Pied Hornbill. Known in Laos as the “forest guardian,” the bird is as fascinating as it is rare.

The Pied Hornbill, also known as the Black-billed or White-winged Hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris), is a species belonging to the Bucerotidae family. It is endemic to Southeast Asia, particularly Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam. The Pied Hornbill inhabits developed forest areas with an abundance of large trees that provide a dense canopy. It thrives in tropical and subtropical forests (both primary and secondary), forest edges and adjacent woodland, parks, gardens, and fruit tree orchards.

The Pied Hornbill is a medium to large bird, measuring up to 25 cm in length and weighing an average of one kilogram. It has distinctive plumage, with a black head, dark brown back, and white underparts. Its wings are black with white markings, and it has a long, graduated tail and powerful pointed beak. The bird is omnivorous and feeds on a wide variety of foods, including fruit, berries, seeds, insects, spiders, small reptiles and mammals, and bird eggs. It is often seen feeding in fruit trees, where it moves stealthily in search of ripe fruit. The bird has an average flying speed of 50 km per hour.

Pied Hornbills are social and gregarious, forming groups that range from a few individuals to large gatherings. They are often seen and heard moving noisily through the forest canopy, emitting distinctive calls. The breeding season varies from region to region, occurring during the rainy season when environmental conditions are optimal for nesting and abundant food resources. Pied Hornbills generally build their nests in tree hollows, where the female lays several eggs that she incubates for a fortnight. Both parents help incubate and feed the young.

The Pied Hornbill is mainly sedentary, although some populations may move seasonally or migrate locally depending on the availability of food resources and environmental conditions.

In many Asian cultures, the Pied Hornbill is considered a symbol of good luck, prosperity, and protection. It is sometimes depicted in art, literature, and religious ceremonies as a sacred bird associated with good fortune and wisdom. In Laotian culture, a particularly large and majestic Pied Hornbill called Dok Champa is said to be the guardian of the forest and nature spirits. According to a Cambodian legend, a Pied Hornbill saved a village from destruction by warning the inhabitants of imminent danger.

In Vietnam, the most popular national parks and nature reserves for spotting the Pied Hornbill are Cu Phuong, Phong Nha - Ke Bang, Yok Don and Cat Tien. In Laos, they can be spotted in Nam Et and Phu Kao Khouay not far from Vientiane; in Virachey, Siem Pang, the Cardamon forests in Cambodia; and in the Khao Yai forest of Cambodia.


© Illustration: Damien Egan.
 

Battambang is Cambodia’s second largest city after Phnom Penh, with a population of almost 150,000. It is the capital of Battambang Province and the leading rice granary in Cambodia. Founded in the 11th century, Battambang fell under Thai control twice before being definitively reclaimed by the French in favor of the Khmers in 1909. The city is easily accessible by road from Phnom Penh (300 km) or Siem Reap (170 km). In the rainy season, traveling by river from Siem Reap to Battambang via the Tonlé Sap Lake is a unique journey on Cambodia’s nourishing waters.

Battambang lies on the banks of the Sangker River, a tributary of the Tonlé Sap, and is surrounded by fertile plains where rice, coconuts, oranges, and bananas are grown. In the town center, you’ll find colonial-style mansions with old-fashioned charm along the river, with small temples peeking out. The central market and archaeological museum are also well worth visiting.

In the southern part of Battambang lies the village of Wat Kor, famous for its 21 early 20th-century houses built from rare woods and surrounded by orchards and gardens, where you can dream and soak in the atmosphere of a bygone age. It was this authentic countryside that Kim Nou and Sophean, both Francophiles, chose for the location of the Maison Wat Kor. Blending harmoniously into the dense vegetation, this charming hotel features 15 rooms in three beautifully preserved traditional wooden houses on stilts, complete with a restaurant-bar and saltwater swimming pool.

In the late 1970s, after the fall of the Khmer Rouge regime, young Kim Nou frequently went fishing with his fellow villagers on Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. One day, on their way to the lake, the wheel of their oxcart broke. A neighboring family rushed to their aid and fixed the cart. With the repairs completed, the family out of natural kindness invited Kim Nou and his friends to enjoy a convivial meal. This heartfelt moment shared as if they were members of the same family became forever anchored in the young Kim Nou’s mind as a benchmark of Cambodian hospitality.

Today, the founder of Maison Wat Kor’s motto is to foster the human strength of Battambang’s communities and to redistribute the profits generated by his establishment to them fairly. Kim Nou encourages residents to understand and protect the essence of traditional Khmer architecture, as opposed to the contemporary style of the Chinese urban residential complexes that are gaining ground in Cambodia. He also promotes local cuisine, serving his guests culinary feasts inspired by family meals served with traditional Cambodian hospitality. The entire staff of Maison Wat Kor strives to pass on this culture and traditions to visiting guests, which have included American and French ambassadors and actors Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt.

From this lush oasis, explore the entrancing countryside around Battambang by bicycle or tuktuk. Meet Khmer craftsmen specializing in popular delicacies such as rice paper made from broken rice soaked in clay pots, dried bananas, bamboo glutinous rice (Kralan), and rice wine. Immerse yourself in the daily life of these rural communities and taste freshly prepared specialties, sharing a moment of conviviality over a taste of seasonal fruit, coconut water, and warm smiles. Nearby, visit the commemorative site for victims of the Khmer Rouge regime, the Samrong Knong extermination field, or the historic and religious site of Phnom Sampov (the Grotto of Death), famous for its reclining Buddha. For circus aficionados, visit the campus of the NGO Phare Ponleu Selpak, a cultural organization dedicated to integrating disadvantaged young people into the world of arts and entertainment, a veritable catalyst of vocation for these new generations in the making.

                           

---

© Caption: Art Forms in Nature by Ernst Haeckel, 1904.