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NOVEMBER 2023
CONTENT
The Bryde's whale, the Indochinese cult of the cetacean.
The one-of-a-kind Dechiu Hotel Hoi An.
Norodom Sihanouk, and Cambodia independence.
THE BRYDE'S WHALE
THE INDOCHINESE CULT OF THE CETACEAN
Looking out over the Pacific from the terraces of the Amanoi or Zannier Bai San Ho hotels in south-central Vietnam, it is sometimes possible to spot families of Bryde’s whales. The elusive cetaceans are emblematic of the South Vietnamese coastline and have been spotted once again in these tropical waters.
Little research has been carried out on Indochinese marine mammals, particularly those found along the 3,260 km Vietnamese coastline. The most notable are Bryde’s whale (Balaenoptera brydei), the minke whale (Balaenoptera acutorostratala), the humpback whale (Megaptera novaeanglide), the blue whale (Balaenoptera musculus), Cuvier’s beaked whale (Ziphius cavirostrisle), the melon-headed whale or Electra’s dolphin (Peponocephala electrale), the pygmy sperm whale (Kogia breviceps), the dwarf sperm whale (Kogia simusle), the pygmy killer whale (Feresa attenuatale), the bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncatus), the spinner dolphin (Stenella longirostrisle), the finless porpoise (Neophocaena phocaeivoides), the Irrawaddy dolphin (Orcaella brevirostris), and the dugong (Dugong dugon).
The Bryde’s whale is divided into three species, possibly four. The most common species, Bryde’s whale (Balaenoptera brydei), is found in warm, temperate oceans; the smaller Eden’s whale (Balaenoptera edeni) is limited to the Indo-Pacific region, while the other two species are found along southern Africa and the Gulf of Mexico.
In Southeast Asia, Bryde’s whales roam the Gulf of Martaban in Myanmar and the coasts of the Bay of Bengal, Bangladesh, Thailand, Vietnam, Taiwan and as far as southern Japan.
Male rorquals measure on average 4m at birth and 12m at maturity, weighing between 12 and 25 tons. Both sexes reach sexual maturity between the ages of eight and 11. The rorqual is a baleen whale, belonging to the same group as blue and humpback whales. It has twin blowholes, a low front splash shield, two rows of baleen plates instead of teeth, a dark gray back, and a white belly. Eden’s whales have a different appearance, with blue-gray backs, a white patch of varying size on their throats, an anchor-shaped white mark pointing backwards between their pectoral fins, and white or pink oval scars from shark or killer whale bites.
The rorqual’s breath is columnar or bushy, about 3.5m high, and it can also exhale underwater. It dives regularly for around 15 minutes and can reach a depth of 300m. Its behavior is erratic, and it can change direction for unknown reasons. Its average speed varies between 1.5 and 6 km/h, even reaching 24 km/h in some cases. Its vocalization is short and powerful, resembling a human moan. The rorqual appears singly or in pairs, and sometimes in groups of up to 20. It feeds on fish, planktonic crustaceans, and cephalopods, including anchovies, sardines, euphausiids, oceanic fish, and mackerel.
Vietnamese fishermen have long venerated Bryde’s whales and blue whales, believing that they will help them in case of distress at sea. Some villages in central and south-central Vietnam have stories of cetaceans pushing people and boats ashore after their boats have been swept out to sea by typhoons or currents. In addition to whales, fishermen also revere dolphins, dugongs, leatherback turtles (Dermochelys coriacea), sawfish and giant squid. The bones of these creatures are occasionally used to build temples, and they are often buried near one.
The veneration or “cult of the whale” is inherited from ancient Cham beliefs. When a whale is found washed ashore, worshippers follow to honor its spirit. One of the interesting features of these cults is that the discoverer or inventor of the whale is considered the “son of the cetacean.” This person observes a mourning period, as the whale is referred to as their mother or father. Once discovered, the cetacean is covered with paper streamers and a crowd comes to pay their respects and burn incense. The whale is then transported to a shelter or temple, where it is laid out on a decorated mat. Death notices are sent to other villages practicing the cult of the whale. Gongs and drums sound all night long. The villages are decorated with banners, and candles and incense are burned all around. At the moment of burial, the finder of the whale goes into a trance, and out of his mouth come the words of the whale’s spirit. The whale asks to be buried three days later. During these two days, pirogue races are organized in its honor. Mourning can last up to three months (Charles Macdonald, Aséanie, 2003).
Some of the species of Indochinese marine mammals have disappeared. Fortunately, Bryde’s whales, which had been rare for some years, have been regularly reported off Binh Dinh province since 2022, recently less than a nautical mile from De Di beach (Phu Cat district, Binh Dinh province).
In 2023, Secret Indochina has developed various maritime modules in Phu Yen. Remarkable dunes, rocky promontories and islands offer the opportunity to observe the ocean and, as luck would have it, these astonishing whales...
© Illustration credit: Chloe Yzoard
THE ONE-OF-A-KIND
DECHIU HOTEL HOI AN
At nightfall, Hoi An blazes under the light of hundreds of lanterns. This ancient trading port of the great Champa period was once frequented by Arab, British, Chinese, Dutch, French, and Japanese mercantile merchants who came to load cargoes of silk, embroidery, spices, pottery, tea, and porcelain. Today, the city is home to a pedestrian downtown area that has earned UNESCO World Heritage status and is rightly regarded as an open-air museum.
The Dechiu Hotel has sprung up on the outskirts of Hoi An, a discreet oasis of 12 rooms nestled between fragrant rice paddies a stone's throw from An Bang beach. This invitation to poetry and relaxation is the brainchild of TheO Pham, a Hanoi-based architect with a passion for design that she conveys in the Dechiu. The boutique hotel is a highly personal and provocative concept, influenced by her peaceful, carefree childhood enchanted by the scent of the countryside bathed in sea air.
The Dechiu’s style approaches tropical brutalism, but with a surprising warmth that interweaves subtle color palettes, from honey ochre to milk blue and indigo. Its exalted tone inspires creativity and meditation, with large desks and stacks of books next to chaise lounges dressed in vintage textiles. Throughout, the hotel celebrates Vietnamese craftsmanship with locally carved antique furniture, handmade linens, and ethnic artwork. Past a gentle pond filled with koi carp, the aged cement floors and walls emanate a wabi-sabi ambiance reminiscent of the clay houses of the coastal countryside where TheO grew up. All this is complemented by the intimate vegetarian restaurant Gieo, a promise of love, kindness, and wisdom that promotes the natural, the unprocessed, and the authentic.
This seductive picture-perfect town and its environs can be explored through a variety of experiences:
- An escape by bicycle or vintage car between the rural islets of the Thu Bon Delta to the former vernacular home of a mandarin of a 19th century royal court. This experience brings you face-to-face with artisans who are experts in basket weaving and rush matting as well as making the barque-ronde, a coracle that symbolizes the resilience and skill of the Vietnamese people.
- A cultural walk back in time through the old city’s discreet alleyways and hidden gems, such as the Maternity Pagoda, a family temple open for the occasion, or a mysterious encounter with a practitioner of traditional medicine.
- A foray into Hoi An’s market-garden countryside, where houses blend in with betel palms and rice fields, to meet an engaging farming family committed to organic farming.
- An in-depth visit to the archaeological site of My Son, where the most important remains of the ancient kingdoms of Champa still stand. Visitors are accompanied by a renowned archaeologist who was part of the campaign to have My Son declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
LEARN MORE
NORODOM SIHANOUK
AND CAMBODIA INDEPENDENCE
On November 9, 2023, Cambodia will celebrate 70 years of independence. To mark the occasion, Secret Indochina revisits the circumstances which led to Cambodia’s independence and the key role played by Norodom Sihanouk, former king and statesman.
Crowned in 1941, Sihanouk abdicated in 1955 to get into politics, which he could not do as monarch according to the Cambodian Constitution. He served as head of the state until March 18, 1970, when Lon Nol staged a successful coup d’état. That was not the end of Sihanouk. He was re-crowned King in 1993, subsequently retiring in 2003 after a unique life of political deaths and renaissance unheard of in any other monarchy.
Norodom Sihanouk directed 19 films during his life. One titled
An Ambition Reduced to Ashes
(1995) reveals the most insight into the king’s view of himself and his legacy. The film tells the story of a young prince educated by a guru and master, who took special care that the prince should ascend the throne one day and become the equal of the greatest Cambodian kings, including King Jayavarman VII.
In the film, the prince is only partly human; he is also of divine essence. As a future God-King, he is advised to stay far apart from humans. However, he falls in love with a peasant girl in the countryside and is tempted to become wholly human, even though this would prevent him from being incarnated into a great king.
The guru intervened and explained to the young girl that if she and the prince express their love physically, the young prince would revert to his true age, his body would be reduced to ashes, and his mission to become the greatest king of Cambodia would never be fulfilled. Unable to resist the girl’s beauty, the prince makes physical love with the young girl. At the end of the night his body transforms into that of a very old man and he dies, reduced to smoking ashes.
In this and other films, Sihanouk is clearly undergoing self-reflection and analysis. He sees himself as someone who was destined to achieve the greatest ambition, but in some sense could not fulfill it. While Sihanouk had no illusions about himself, he lived an extraordinary life; indeed, he lived many lives in one. His life can be compared to a stage where he simultaneously played many parts: king, statesman, filmmaker, writer, musical composer, and epicurean, to name a few.
It is difficult to put together all the aspects of Sihanouk’s personality. One thing is certain: An outstanding politician and statesman, he was passionate in service to Cambodia, and eventually would interfere in the most tragic way in decisive periods of modern Cambodia.
The King
King Monivong died on April 23, 1941. The council of the crown then selected Prince Norodom Sihanouk as King of Cambodia, following the rule set by France’s Vichy regime at the time.
When Norodom Sihanouk ascended the throne in September 1941, it began like a fairy tale. The Cambodian monarchy is not hereditary, and the king is not required to be the son of the preceding king. It is an elected monarchy, with the king chosen from numerous princes – generally from the Norodom or Sisowath branches of the royal family – and elected by the Royal Council of the Crown.
The Royal Council of the Crown, however, was merely an instrument in the hands of the real political power. So, when Norodom Sihanouk became the king in 1941, the question of why he was chosen was the equivalent of asking why the French wanted Sihanouk to be the king. As a joke, the wife of the governor-general of Indochina, Admiral Jean Decoux, allegedly responded “because he was a very cute boy.”
For Admiral Decoux, aside from Sihanouk’s cuteness, he was the perfect candidate to be king. Sihanouk loved enjoying himself with cars, sports, parties, and dancing, and he was smart enough to persuade the French that he wasn’t concerned with politics at all. He was chosen because the French believed he wasn’t interested in power; the old illusion “He’ll do what we want him to do” revealed an incredible political blindness. Later, Sihanouk wrote about this period of his life when he was chosen to become the King: “My first reaction was of fear, of fright, I broke into tears.”
Sihanouk demonstrated that he had a talent for waiting and seizing the opportunity when it arose, and the French soon discovered their mistake. On March 11, 1945, under pressure from Japanese troops, Sihanouk abrogated the 1863 and 1884 French protectorate treatises and de facto proclaimed Cambodian independence.
There was a fly in the ointment: the Japanese had installed Son Ngoc Than as prime minister. He was a very popular personality who went into exile in Tokyo after organizing anti-French demonstrations in Phnom Penh in July 1942. In theory, the French collaborationist Vichy regime and Japan were allies, and Japanese troops could have entered French Indochina without resistance. In reality, however, Franco-Japanese relations were mainly based on mutual distrust. French Indochina did not fit into Japan’s vision of a southeast Asia that was part of greater East Asian sphere of co-prosperity, and the choice of the radical nationalist Son Ngoc Than was much more convenient for the Japanese than the somewhat ambiguous Sihanouk.
The opposition between Sihanouk and Son Ngoc Than played a significant role in Cambodian politics from 1945 to 1993. Son Ngoc Than was an ideologue who wanted to translate his vision into reality at any cost, while Sihanouk was a pragmatist who knew better than to indulge in wishful thinking. One was no less nationalist than the other, but the difference between the two men lay in the ability to think within the realms of possibility. Sihanouk knew very well that the time was not ripe for independence, as he had a much better understanding of the international situation than Son Ngoc Than. Events proved that Sihanouk had been correct.
In 1946, the French returned, placed Son Ngoc Than under arrest, and exiled him in France. Sihanouk, meanwhile, was confirmed in his functions, with divided views. On the one hand, he was viewed as “clean” because he had abrogated the protectorate treaties under the influence of the Japanese. From the other perspective, he had been a willing victim of the Japanese, and his frequent denials were another paradoxical way to make it clear that the events of March 11, 1945, were just a final rehearsal.
The road to independence
Sihanouk spent 1946 to 1952 asking for French concessions and pleading for Cambodia’s independence. Independence seemed to be within arm’s reach; the 1st Indochinese conflict had begun in what is today Vietnam.
In Cambodia, the situation was characterized by a growing unrest due to the Khmer Issarak (Free Khmer) nationalist uprising and the Indochinese Communist Party. The Democratic Party, like the Communist party, sought the total independence of Cambodia as a major part of its program.
The question that remained was a decisive one for the future of Cambodia: Who would achieve independence?
Once more, Sihanouk played a major role. In 1951, thanks to his intercession, his old enemy Son Ngoc Than was released by the French and returned to Cambodia. The stakes were high because Son Ngoc Thanh’s radicalism resonated with a big part of Cambodia’s population, and he was a major obstacle for Sihanouk. The game that followed was a three-act masterpiece directed by Sihanouk that showcased his talents:
1. He invited Son Ngoc Thanh to negotiate with him. For a radical who built his life on a zero-concession principle, negotiation was in essence a dangerous game.
2. When Sihanouk didn’t offer him a prominent place, a disappointed Son Ngoc Thanh rejoined the Khmer Issarak in February 1952. Sihanouk appeared then to the world as the only peaceful solution.
3. In June 1952, when he had to beat the Khmer Issarak by a nose, Sihanouk launched the Royal Crusade to Independence and went to Paris, Washington, and Bangkok with the message “Negotiate with me now.”
The French were wise enough to listen to him, and Cambodia became an independent state on November 9, 1953, with formal international recognition following in July 1954. Sihanouk once again proved to be a superior chess player who was several moves ahead of his adversaries.
It was not enough for Sihanouk to be the father of Independence. He was also a king in a constitutional monarchy where a king was supposed to reign quietly and not govern. It was difficult to imagine that someone like Sihanouk would be satisfied with unveiling primary schools and receiving bunches of flowers. Sihanouk wanted to govern. Of course, it would be ridiculous to think that he wanted power for power; Sihanouk had a vision that required the application of power.
The head of the State
Sihanouk devised a solution that was almost inconceivable, like most episodes of his life. On February 27, 1955, he abdicated in favor of his father Suramarit. Now a mere citizen, Sihanouk launched his Sangkum Reastr Niyum, often translated as Popular Socialist Community, an impressive mixture of nationalism, neutralism, socialism, and Buddhism.
As prince, king, and head of state, the people’s vision of Sihanouk was always strong and uncompromising, engendering faithful followers and implacable enemies. It is difficult to evaluate such a complex and outsized personality. For analysts, the many-sided aspects of his character and numerous activities generate confusion: what does a filmmaker have to do with statesmanship? Sihanouk’s personality is not a paradox, rather his life and deeds display an incredible capacity to integrate paradoxes into an art of governing.
Jean-Michel Filippi.
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